Archived entries for Migrants

Alone in the Crowd

Zeek adds a new landing page image every  Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Since we relaunched the magazine in conjunction with the Forward last Fall, our art director has been using photos I’ve taken both here, in Europe, as well as in Israel and the US. Maya added this photo on Wednesday.

Shot in Venice last October, it’s one of a dozen or so pictures I took in Italy over the last year, of black figurines, used in window displays like this. The arrangement of little white kids, around the bust of the noticeably larger, young black woman, is particularly interesting. Their eyes are so vacant.

Declining Exchange Rate

One of the best places to gauge Italy’s changing demographics are the open air markets held throughout Milan each week. Our neighborhood affair takes place on Tuesday and Saturday. Hosted in a square bordering Via Vitruvio, its a great place to buy everything from olive oil and parakeets, to Italian translations of the Koran, and cheap pantyhose.

For the last month, I’ve forced myself to go down to the market, and record the different languages I encounter as I walk from one end to the other.  French, Arabic, Spanish, Tamil, together with several different Italian dialects, are the primary languages spoken. Often I have found myself recording one language on my left, another on my right, simultaneously.

Focused on making audio recordings, I almost always left my camera behind on these trips. Last week, however, I made an exception. An Egyptian merchant had been selling Obama-themed grocery bags for the previous couple of weeks. I didn’t want to buy one. However, I didn’t want to leave Milan without having taken a picture of one of them either.

Going Underground

The coffee is okay. Perhaps a little too nutty for my taste. It’s probably one of the same discount brands on offer in the deli. However, the piadina sandwiches are pretty good, during the winter it’s always warm inside, and there’s a newsstand with an excellent selection of international newspapers less than twenty feet away.

Located in the tube station underneath our building, I increasingly find myself eschewing above-ground establishments in Piazzale Loreto in favor of this cafe’s womb-like environs. Despite the fact that it’s always busy, there’s something calming about the cheap cappuccinos and availability of familiar news periodicals.

Like the majority of the cafes in our neighborhood, it is also full of foreigners. Eavesdrop on any of the conversations taking place and one will hear everything from Albanian and Arabic to Portugese and Tagalog. If I have any difficulty ordering, there’s oftentimes one or two Peruvians on staff whom I can speak to in Spanish.

If you were to ask me for an example of present day Milan, I’d be hard-pressed to offer something more au courant. No, its not Peck, or one of the hip cafes in Isola or Brera, where the coffee is indeed superior. It’s the fact that this place is both so totally comfortable and contrary, simultaneously, to Italy, as we imagined it to be.

On the Border

WithoutPapers

Local curio shop trafficking in kitsch covering everything from Italian colonialism to boys toys and illegal immigration. Milan, 12/09.



Copyright © 2004–2009. All rights reserved.

This blog is proudly powered by Wordpress and uses Modern Clix, a theme by Rodrigo Galindez. Implemented by Mike Lee.